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May 10, 2008

Hospitality in Valpolicella

Chestnut_at_villa_monteleone_2 Alfonso Cevola was asking me last night if I knew of any other good places to stay in the Verona area -- besides the friendly Conca d'Oro B&B that I wrote about after Vinitaly (click here) and the beautiful Alla Colombara (click here).  I told him I did and he urged me to write about it.  I happily comply; I'm long overdue writing about Villa Monteleone.

If the name seems familiar, it will be because I have written about the classy wines of Lucia Raimondi before.  Her house is a large 19th century villa set among lush gardens and vineyards, and she makes three suites available for guests, each costing either 70 or 75 euros a night, with breakfast.  The most popular and largest is the San Vito with a hot tub and spacious private bath.  It has its own entrance, so coming and going is very convenient. 


April 28: Chestnuts were in bloom at Villa Moneteleone

Sanvito

San Vito suite.  All the suites are named after the house's wines.  San Vito is, I think, the best of the wines.  It is an extremely fine Ripasso.





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View from terrace of Santa Lena suite. The terrace is bigger than most New York apartments. Much.











Masi_is_across_the_lane


View from the terrace.  Masi is across the lane











If you are interested in staying at Villa Monteleone, consult the web site.  Mrs. Raimondi responds quickly and warmly to online requests/reservations.

www.villamonteleone.com
info@villamonteleone.com

May 09, 2008

Ravello on a Sunday afternoon

I mentioned on Sunday that I was in Ravello, wandering around and eating a very good meal on a spectacular terrace overlooking the sea, the vineyards and the lemon groves.  The restaurant is part of the Hotel Villa Amore.  The photos of the place and the food may tempt you to go there. 

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From the terrace of the Villa Amore restaurant





Ravello_hotel_villa_amore_beginning


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Ravello_view_from_hotel_villa_amore

Again from the Villa Amore terrace.  By the way, the hotel is not at all expensive.

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On the following page are some pix of Ravello and its immediate surroundings. 










 Hotel Villa Amore mascot. Or future antipasto?

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By the way, thanks to Luigi Reale -- whose wines and osteria I'll write about more extensively soon --
we received a tour of the magnificent Hotel Caruso in Ravello.  Janetdalesio I definitely had the feeling that I should be emptying waste baskets and sweeping marble steps.  Click here for a view of the infinity pool.  And please do feel unworthy.

Hotel Caruso guide and PR director, Janet D'Alesio


 

Continue reading "Ravello on a Sunday afternoon" »

After hours: aged bloggers carouse

Quickly, about last night.

I got home about 6pm, unpacked, ate the ritual return dinner of a turkey club and potato salad, and after enduring a couple of TV shows that Ken had recorded ("CSI Miami" and, God help us, that thing with Sally Field), I fortified myself with iPod and Charlie Christian's elegant guitar work and sped downtown on the beauteous 6 train to Il Buco.

Sorry, that sentence was almost Italianate. 

Sorry, too, that this that is another of those dumb Twitter-like blog posts.  Oh, who cares.  It's not like someone's paying me to do this.  (HINT.)

Anyway, jetlagged as I was and am, I had to see Alfonso Cevola, Marco Romano and the ubiquitous Jeremy Parzen, grand blogging buds.  It was important to see the boys because we all weren't going to be in town long. 

After Jeremy and his posse left, the three old men of the group -- yours truly being the oldest, damn it -- headed out looking for some wine bar action.  We walked over to Avenue B.  Unaccountably, though it was only 12:30, most places had already closed.  We grabbed a taxi and went to the West Village.  Destination: Alice Feiring's favorite wine bar, I think, the Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar.  Very small, very crowded.  We stayed till more or less last call at 2am, speaking of wine and time and the meaning of life.  Interesting and worthy wine list. Very nice Chenin Blanc there.  Most full-sized pours are about $12.  The tap water is on the house.

I felt young and like I could stay up all night.  Sometimes legal prescription drugs can really better your existence.  And they did give me a chance to catch up with AC, MR and JP.  Great re-entry to the Grande Mela.

May 07, 2008

Da Giggetto a Roma

Pretty good, I must admit. The roast lamb, a Roman specialty, is wonderful. The house wines are awful. A bottle of Gianpaolo Paglia's Guazza (Ansonica, Vermentino) was lovely and a bargain at 16€.

We are sitting here at the table, watching the crowd and listening to the celebrations of Israel Memorial Day. The kids are draped in Israeli flags and the band just ceased playing the Top 10 of world Zionism, I guess. A lot of energy and fun. I've seen the same 4 guys, I swear, walking up and down wearing yarmulkes.

Strong police presence. Overtime for talking on the cell phone. Tutto il mondo e' paese. "People are people."

This is mad nice.

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Twitter not lest thou be twittered

Tonight we go to that guidebook favorite Giggetto in the Roman Jewish Ghetto, currently a ghetto of wealth. Ken is very dependent on Zagat wherever we go. I tend to resist, feeling that if a place is too popular with our countrymen, it's probably not as good as hyped and more expensive than it has a right to be. We opened the West, true, but we have tended to stick to the main highways ever since.

I hope to get back to NYC in time to meet up with Cevola, Marco and Parzen tomorrow night. I shall need drugs to stay awake. If I do go, you can be sure I'll be wearing me shades and a jacket slung over me shoulders. I'll air kiss everybody and call everyone carissimo.

The real me at last.

Alll of this trivial stuff is an illustrative prelude to my true purpose, Amanda. This post is like Twitter, all that annoying Twitter clutter that pops up on your screen at odd times, and NEVER of anything important or even interesting.

I know many in blogdom have been singing the praises of Twitter, going so far as to hail it the next marvelous breakthrough in viral communication or something.

It's a virus all right. Consider me cured of it.

I hereby officially unTwitter myself. Be a reasonable, mature person and do likewise. Please.


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Perceptions of wine

Eric Asimov has continued his thread on the perceptions of wine's quality and value in his column in today's NY Times. This is a topic of enduring interest to wine drinkers as well as those who write wine off as an elitist beverage. The key part of the article, I think, is the condemnation of the pseudo-objective scoring system for its intentional stripping away of context from the drinking and enjoyment of wine--and the particular charms of this or that particular wine in a specific time, place and company. The emotional components of wine don't come from the producer, however expressive and poetic certain of them may be, but from the emotions of the drinker himself.



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May 05, 2008

My life sucks! Chapter 344

There is a light rain. I hate rain. Rain makes me feel sad.

Still, I am hearing the rain and the lively sounds of Naples on my covered terrace (4 times the size of a New York kitchen) at the Excelsior Hotel. Just below the top floor, so I have a good view of the Castello dell'Uovo, the yacht marina and the entire bay.

Today I went to several "new" wineries-- some new to me and some new, period, and/or both. I learned how distinct Coastal and Mountain Agloanicos are from each other...madly, deeply, truly so. Ditto Fiano.

I've tasted a bunch of "new" grapes, some new to dumb old me and some back-to-the-future new. Even if they don't thrill me, they're interesting and worthy from at least a historical POV. And usually more because they reveal new, fascinating flavors and perfumes.

We ate abundantly at our old favorite place on the Lungomare di Napoli. We drank a plain Sella and Mosca Vermentino to go with our seafood dishes. And a half bottle of limoncello and meloncello after.

I feel no pain and all is right with the world.

I am not the bitter broken wretch who began mondosapore. Italy, even Napoli, is my, like, apotheosis, maaaan.

Pix by EOW. QED and all that.

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May 04, 2008

Amalfi in August

...Couldn't be much more overcrowded and traffic-bound than it is now--could it? Within minutes I was heading up endless flights of steps, twisting and turning in wind-swept corridors till I got as far as I could go. I will post some typically gorgeous pix of the place when I get to NY. My refrain.

Now in Ravello where I've taken photos not only of the spectacular views from the restaurant where I've had a wonderful lunch of orata alla griglia...I've also taken them of the food. Jeremy Parzen has made me feel guilty.

The wine was a Ravello product, "Selva delle Monache" (Nuns' Wood). Nice but nothing great. The food definitely outclasses the wine here at Hotel Villa Amore.

I was just thinking about "the scandal of particularity". This is the idea that it is a "scandal" that Jesus came to save the world in that place, that time. You can extend the scamdalous idea to everything in the Old Testament, from Abram to Moses and the concept of Chosenness and onward.

Which is quite a leap to the scandal of the blessedness we feel in a place and at a moment where/when we feel content, complete, at one with the world around us. We feel that blessedness in precious few moments of life. When we fall in love. When we have an epiphany, such as "I belong in this world because you love me". And when we travel far and long and expensively to a place of stunning beauty and serenity. As if to say, "The quest is done. I have arrived at my golden destination.".

As all but the dullest of you will have guessed, this is the prevailing sea breeze now.

A blessed domeinica a tutti.

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Tom Friedman, us today, and the future

I've been thinking a lot about the thoughts churned up by my post "Reflections on the EU.". A great deal of what's been preocciupying me was well expressed today by Tom Friedman in the NYT. Of the many things that rang true was his statement (I paraphrase because it's very hard to toggle back and forth on a Blackberry) "we are no longer the country we think we are." The more you travel, the more you realize that our self-image is decades out of date. It doesn't accord with any current reality. We aren't as good, as strong, as rich or as free as many peoples in the developed world. Friedman's central thesis is that we need, and likely will not choose, a president who will tell us the truth, who will inspire us to make great efforts to great purposes. As the campaign drags on and on, like some sort of idiot reflex, the perceived truth-tellers, like McCain and Obama, are willing participants in the death of their promises.

I've thought a lot about what Tom Brokaw calls "the greatest generation." This generation was forged by depression and war; but it was formed and given its chance for greatness by an older generation that showed astonishing wisdom, grace and shrewdness in the creation of low-cost mortgage programs for young veterans and the GI Bill, which opened the horizons for a generation that had seen much and dreamed big dreams.

Oh yes, really great generation, the ones who legislated the GI Bill, etc., also gave the gift of the Marshall Plan. A gift to Europe and the world (not to mention ourselves--this was the quintessence of enlightened self-interest).

Who among our "leaders" would be capable of such vision, such taming of narrow self-interest today?

(Pause. Long pause.)

These are my ruminatipns on the seaside at Maiori on the Amalfi coast.

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May 03, 2008

Ah Biancazita!

Today I extended my personal acquaintance with some spicy, saucy characters named Biancazita, Pepella, Biancolella and Tintore. They sound like a vaudeville act or dancers in a burlesque house.

These are in fact grape varieties from the Amalfi coast, specifically from the azienda Reale Andrea in the little town of Tramonti 5 km from the coast above Maiori. Above being the key word; we're almost 500 metres above sea level here, and the strong afternoon sea breeze keeps the vines cool and chases mold and mildew away.

By the way, Tramonti is where Mario Cuomo's forebears came from. The name of the town can mean either"sunsets" or, as I think more likely in this case, "between the hills" (tra-i-monti). The town straggles its way by twisty roads up from the valley floor onto both of the 700 metre hillsides.

I'm currently at the Osteria Reale, the roomy, sunny agriturismo above Luigi Reale"s restaurant, where some big shots, led by the Berlusconi-baiting journalist Marco Vaglia (I hope I spelled his name right), descended on this madly picturesque place to eat abundantly and well. Luigi served his own wines; the restaurant is well-known and consumes much of his production.

I got a number of photos of the vineyards and stunning, green countryside. Full report on the wines along with pix when I get back to NYC.

Yes, another Irishly gloomy, miserable, depressed day in Paradise...

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Rain rain rain

No, it's another beautiful day. I remarked how green the countryside is now, a southern version of Ireland, here in Campania.

Fortunato explained that it has rained a great deal this spring -- a blessing because last summer was quite hot, with little rain after July. Before that, a warm dry winter.

"If we get some rain near the end of July," he just told me, "this could be a very good vintage."

On autostrada for the Amalfi coast. Swimming weather. Just the thing to dive into the chilly spring water after tasting wine all day. I know, my life is a sad one.

Well, you'd better grab it while you can, no?


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May 01, 2008

Friuli and southward

Briefly, since the Blackberry is low on juice. Waiting at Marco Polo airport near Venice to fly to Naples in a couple of hours. After several intense days in the Verona area, about which I shall show and tell much more when I get home, it's been a very pleasing two days in Friuli.

We went to the small, dynamic and extremely beautiful Aquila del Torre winery in northern Friuli yesterday. Michele Ciani spent many hours showing us his 85 hectare spread, then tasting his ravishing wines. Immense potential there. Yes, much more when I get home, lots of show and tell.

We spent a great afternoon with Mario and Ferdinando Zanusso in a slighlty more southerly location of Friuli. As always we tasted well-made delicious wines of excellent ageability--Jancis Robinspn calls them "nectars"--and had lively discussions about winemakers and the wine business. Ah, the tales they telll...

Tomorrow we will begin a mini Grand Tour of Campanian producers. Different producers, grapes, terroirs, all inivisibly linked by a passion for wine that says something.

And, yes, show and tell when I get back to New York.


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April 30, 2008

Reflections on the EU

It's fashionable in America and in free-trade circles, like The Economist, to belittle the EU. The old story is that the EU nanny state is an undemocratic bureaucracy that not only meddles in the lives of its citizens but is an inefficient, bloated mess that kills economic growth and stifles innovation. Such arguments are bread and butter for the acolytes of Milton Friedman and the supply side zealots of various US administrations, like the crowd who have given us the wonderful economy we have today.

As I was driving to Friuli today I couldn't help but see another, very tangible reality in today's Europe. The well-maintained highways are crowded with big rigs from every part of the Old World, including countries that aren't even in the EU, such as Serbia, Croatia. Russia and Turkey. Lots of beautiful new cars from a few dozen countries zip along at 120 or more miles per hour, stopping for gas and food at clean, efficient rest stops. They all use the euro no matter where they come from and they painlessly use credit cards and gas up with fuel made according to common specifications. Border controls, where they exist, are perfunctory.

And consider: these modern citizens of Europe speak their own languages and maintain their national identities even as they share a European space, a European purpose, where within living memory they were slaughtering one another by the millions. If this isn't an impressive achievement, I don't know what is.

And consider this: while statistics show most Europeans living longer and healthier lives than ever--yes, despite the alleged horrors of socialized medicine -- an article in today's NY Times cited recent research findings that large swaths of America are living shorter and less healthy lives...for the first time ever. While lack of health insurance seems not to be a key factor in this ominous trend, who is to say really? Less access to health care promotes different, less healthy practices in daily life. Sometimes our people give up. Hopeless people and slaves do that.

This, with Tom Friedman's condemnation of our dumb-and-dumber energy policies, indicates a massive failure to come to terms with ANY of the big problems facing us. We Americans like to make jokes about Europeans' long vacations and the corruption of places like Italy. But let me tell you from this town (Udine) near the old East/West border: Europe works quite well, and in much of the Old World the average Giuseppe or Jose' lives a longer, healthier and maybe less emarginated life than in our country. And if I were poor and/or seriously ill, I'd stand a far better chance of living longer here and not bankrupting my children to do it.

We once had these ideals of helping one another and realizing our responsibilities to the common good. We are no longer that country. We lose.

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April 29, 2008

Short + sweet

A bit overcast with brief periods of rain in Valpolicellaland today. Yet despite the outer gloom there is sunlight in my vile old heart. I spent a merry few hours tasting wine and chatting with old friends Egle and Albino Armani, whose clean monovarietal wines are well priced and eminently drinkable. Their Pinot Grigio is actually good - it has a clear, snappy flavor and a distinctive almost aromatic nose.

Such are the often pleasant revelations of the wine life.

Plus I of course have a crush (cotta) on Egle, lovely lady.

Well, enough of my late-night, clumsy-fingered ramblings on the Blackberry. As Alfonso Cevola would say, "Tired but happy, it was a dark and stormy night..."


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April 28, 2008

Danger in Valpolicella

The wonderful thing about visiting Valpolicella is that it's so scenic, so full of history, so prosperous and comfortable. That's also the most "dangerous" thing about the area. Valpolicella is the place to be in suburban Verona, and it suffers from its own version of suburban sprawl.

Compared to most American (or Italian) versions of the phenomenon, it seems relatively benign here. The scale of construction hasn't reached obnoxious levels. Yet the sheer number and density of construction cranes gives you pause. Farmland, whether of orchards or vineyards, is under strong pressures of development. Many major local routes, like SP4 near the Villa Monteleone and Masi properties, are seeing more apartments, villas and small-scale commercial buildings going up.

I've talked with some long-term residents of the area and they of course deplore all the new development. The old georgic life is falling under the weight of new money, and some of the old peace and remoteness has been lost, apparently for ever. Even an outsider like me can see it.

Still, Valpolicella remains one of those classically beautiful landscapes, one that reflects centuries of human attention and patrimonial wealth. Under pressure? But you have to hope that its wealth will somehow protect and prevent Valpolicella from succumbing to the more wretched aspects of modern overdevelopment.

We've had some lovely wines and encounters. I'll report after I get home and can liven up the posts with pictures.

A presto!

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April 26, 2008

If this is Tuesday it must be Friuli

I'm leaving today for Veneto, Friuli and Campania.  To see the landscape in an advanced state of spring and to see how the vines are budding.  To taste and re-taste the wines at Aquila del Torre, I Clivi and Dall'Abaco Fedrigoni in the North and various of Fortunato Sebastiano's clients from the South.

I won't have my laptop with me because Internet access is so spotty, and Wi-Fi is all but impossible to find outside of major towns.  But I will post on my trusty BlackBerry, with pictures to be added after my return. 

A presto!

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May 2008

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