Jacques Puffeney, Chardonnay 1995

Jacques Puffeney is an extraordinary winemaker in the Jura region of France, not a well-known area to most Americans.  He specializes in the savagnin grape to make the region's calling card wine, vin jaune. But I am not here to write about vin jaune--so many people do already.  I am drinking his highly individualistic 1995 Chardonnay (Appellation Arbois), and I am bowled over by its complexity and its relatively low cost. It's also hard to find--I bought this at Astor last month and it seems to be history now.  Pity.  All this "fire and music" for under $20.

This is Chardonnay such as you have never had, whether it be Californian or

"the usual suspects" French.  It seems to have been made with the sort of solera technique that is used for both sherry and vin jaune.  The flavors range from earthy truffles underneath to apples on top, and the nutty taste of sherry in between.  A note of honey as well, although it is very dry, and one of pink grapefruit.  It's unique and, to my mind, much more successful than the red wine of his (Pinot Noir) that I have drunk.  This Chard is absolutely spellbinding with its rich aroma and flavors and its unusual almost pink-gold color.

This is another Neal Rosenthal find, and a great one it is. 

It's something to look for--and buy as much as you can if you do succeed in finding it. 

Comments

[Fredric Koeppel]

The soil and climate of Arbois must do something for the chardonnay grape. I'm just writing about a chardonnay from 2003 from Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot, "Les Bruyeres," and it's unlike any chardonnay I have ever tasted, dry as a bone but explosively floral and spicy.

[Terry Hughes]

Oh my God, are we admitting to being terroirists here?

[rusvitt]

Mi chiedo cosa succederà quando assaggerai un Montrachet...o anche un più umile ma altrettanto buono (con costi assai minori)Pouilly-Fuissè...Concordo con Fredric sullo chardonnay di Andre e Mireille Tissot (in Italia si trova facilmente distribuito da Velier, è un vino tripla a (naturale e bio); lo chardonnay viene coltivato nello Jura dal X° secolo...mille anni fà...

[Terry Hughes]

rusvitt, quanto vorrei assaggiare le Montrachet, se potessi pagare. (Magari.)

Questo di Puffeney mi pare un miracolo di rapporto q/p comunque.

[Terry Hughes]

I opened this stuff on Friday night, pumped out the air and left it in the fridge till tonight. It's still amazing.

BTW, I was at Astor yesterday and Puffeney's vin jaune was selling for $66. Maybe if I save up...

[Terry Hughes]

rusvitt, incredibile ma vero: assaggiavo questo vino allo svegliarmi. Luuuuungo. Era cosi' il tuo leggendario Montrachet?

;)