Blowout in Gavardo

Tuesday, August 15

At this moment Aristide is driving to Normandy on about 3 hours' sleep.  I worry for his safety; if he falls asleep at the wheel, I'll hold myself partially to blame.  Here's why.

He and Laura picked us up at about 4:30 Monday afternoon for a visit and tasting to Carlo Boscaini's vineyard.  He and his brother work a small property producing around 30,000 bottles a year.  After a warm welcome and long tasting chat, we made off (late) for Gavardo, the little frazione or section above Salo' where Trattoria Pegaso is located.  Normally it's at least an hour; because of a traffic tie-up, we had to leave the autostrada and double back.  The entire journey took well over an hour and a half.  As usual, Ken and I hadn't eaten lunch and we were starved.

We arrived at a hidden-away location about 8:30.  We wondered aloud how anyone could find it.  Even Giampiero, who had been there a number of times, had got a little lost.

The restaurant was just getting started for the evening.  Adriano was busy then and remained busy, in perpetual motion all night.  The place is charming, rustic, well-attended -- and it's hard to say whether the top draw is the food (the kitchen is overseen by Adriano's patient wife, Nadia) or Adriano himself.  A photo or two will tell you why.

OK, as charming a personaggio (character) as Adriano is, I'd say it had to be the food.  I don't recall every dish that was served us -- course after course of sensationally fresh seafood as starters, then as main courses -- but I can tell you that they were truly magnificent.  If Ken were here, he'd be able to rattle off every one of them in perfect sequence.

But, you say, "Seafood?  In the foothills of the Alps?"  Yes, and some of the best I've ever had.  Aristide told me that Adriano frequents the Milan fish market, which is renowned all over Italy for its high quality.  (It wasn't the right time of year or the right weather for it, but Trattoria Pegaso also has a great reputation with game from the region.)

Adriano also chose interesting wines, many of them, starting with a Franciacorta sparkler, ending with a Chateau Rieussec 1999.  To my mind, the most successful wine of the evening was a Bali' (50/50 Chardonnay - Sauvignon Blanc blend) made by the Trevisani brothers.  Who also came to the table after about half an hour and were still there when we left at 1:15.  As in AM.  (By that hour, Ken and Laura both had been half-asleep for a couple of hours.)   

Left to right: Giampiero, Lorenzo, Mauro Trevisani, Gian Pietro Trevisani, the old party from New York

Gian Pietro and Mauro Trevisani are down-to-earth guys who happen to have high ambitions for their wine.  In fact, they will be in New York in October, promoting them with Chris Rudney of Great Sunsan Imports.  I wrote about their sensational Due Querce (Two Oaks, 100% Cab) back in June.  Their annual production is about 60,000 bottles. The wines I've had are well made with clear, rich flavors.  And they have no qualms about bucking the DOC requirements when they make their blends of local (such as Benacus, 100% rebo) and international wines.  The results speak eloquently for themselves.

All told, our blowout in Gavardo was another one of our peak experiences in the Verona area.  Adriano was as wild and crazy -- and as canny a host and accomplished a restaurateur -- as we had heard.  We loved it all.  I was just sorry that we had to leave so soon (1:15??), because I could have goofed and laughed and feasted all night long.

Grazie, Liloni.

Franco Liloni, Adriano's brother, a Celtic scholar, artist and chef








Aristide, when not being attacked by a crazed hobbit









Laura, whilst yet awake

Comments

[Giampiero alias Aristide]

Here we are, my dears Terry & Ken!
Sitting at a table on a wonderfull terrace of our hotel in Normandy, Etretat. And, as any tireless wine-blogger, sipping a fantastic Chenin Blanc of Chateau de la Mulonnière from Beaulieu sur Layon (Loire Central).
Cheers to all of you, thank you for all of your kind and warm words! And see you again in New York and then at Vinitaly in Verona in 2007!
Ciao from me and Laura!

Giampiero

[lliloniadriano]

thanks......i hope to find you in vinitaly.....
:-O)

[carlo]

ciao,

spero che tu abbia ricevuto delle buone impressioni dalla Valpolicella.
Mi scuso per quell'amarone del 2001 che non era perfetto.
Ci rivedremo al Vinitaly 2007 (magari al mio stand ).
Buon proseguimento della vacanza.

Ciao Carlo