Naples, Third World Disneyland

OK, I've already risked offending my beloved Italian friends.  But I'll be honest with you: this city is a shithole.  The worst of the Bronx and Union City, NJ, wrapped up in one big package of air pollution and rip-off artists. 
We went to Pompei (modern spelling) today and even that was something of a disappointment.  All the really good stuff has been carted away to the archeological museum in Naples or places over the sea.  Hot and filled with more people than actually lived there before the mountain blew its top.  The nicest thing was the dogs: there were dogs lying everywhere, strays, and the workers at the cafeteria and so on look after them with bottled water and scraps of capocollo.  Nice.  Remember, there are casts of dogs that died at Pompeii...

And yet, depressing as this chaotic, third-worldish city is...

The food is great.  The food is superb, in fact, and far cheaper than in places north and west.  We were eating lunch at 3 pm at a place called Gusto & Gusto, a couple of blocks from the Excelsior, and our friend Warren said, "If I had this lunch at San Domenico [on Central Park South] it would cost hundreds of dollars, and I'd still say it was one of the best meals I'd ever had."  This coming from a man who frequents Per Se. 

He was talking about the amazingly fresh mozzarella di bufala; the fresh fresh fresh shrimp and mussels; the home-made pasta cooked to perfection without, it must be noted, an iota of tomato gravy.  And more. 

If we have the stomach for it, we'll head a couple of yards further over to Anema e Cozze (a play on the old song, "Anema e Core," Heart and Soul, only this means "Soul and Mussels," and the seafood is sensational.)  We'll go at 10 pm, wait for half an hour, and tuck in about 10:45, when Naples is just waking up. 

So.  Naples.  It's a shithole, but it does have its redeeming qualities.

And I must say, after this, I'll welcome Rome's relative order and safety.  And I pine for really civilized places like Siena and Verona...

Comments

[pierovini]

I agree!!

[Terry Hughes]

Thank you...I didn't wish to offend but really, ugh...

Although we just returned at midnight from a gloriously good yet simple meal...but, Pierluigi, it wouldn't be enough to get me to live here.

[pierovini]

Adriatic side is the best!!