Last night four of us went to see the new Neil Labute play, Wrecks, which is in previews. Ed Harris is alone on the stage for almost an hour and a half, and the man is (of course) mesmerizing, brilliant, and rises to tragic heights in line with the playwright's aspirations if not his attainment. The production is at the Public Theatre (same block as Astor Wines!). If you can get a ticket, go. Harris is worth whatever you pay.
After the play we walked over to Alphabet City, where it seems every terrific new restaurant that's worth going is opening up these days. This was Ken's second or third visit to Enoteca Barbone, my first. Add this to the list of high-quality Alphabet City restaurants with Italian-inspired menus, ample Italian wine lists, friendly and knowledgeable service, and a young, lively, sophisticated crowd. And moderate prices.
In Italian, "Barbone" means "bum" or "homeless man" -- an ironic name that belies the relatively formal ambience.
We arrived at about 9:45 and stood at the tiny bar for a few minutes while our table was readied. I had a pleasant, unoaked Chardonnay from Piedmont while Courtenay had a glass of Terra Dora Falanghina.
The bartender / owner / maitre d' helped us select exactly the type of wine each of us wanted. Later, at the table, when we wanted a not-too-tannic red to go with the balsamic glazed spareribs that three of us ordered, he asked, "How much do you want to spend?" "Between $30 and $40." Now, as you know, in many New York restaurants, the sommelier or waiter would laugh in your face for mentioning this price range. Not here -- there were dozens of decent selections in that range, from all over Italy.
The "sparerib" wine was a $30 Firriato nero d'avola, and its richness and suggestions of violets and blackberries was a perfect complement to the ribs. (These spareribs for three could have fed eight. Naturally, since this is America and not Italy, we all took a doggie bag home; Sunday supper is in the fridge. At Barbone the portions are huge.)
The owner, Alberto, grew up in Istria and went to culinary school in the North of Italy. He was in London for some time and has been involved with a number of well-regarded New York eateries too. The guy has learned what New York diners respond to, and he is giving to them: terrific food, moderate tabs, a charming atmosphere and -- last but hardly least -- an extensive wine list at reasonable prices. As Alberto told us, "It's wrong to mark wine up too much." He has an Italian, not an American, attitude toward wine: price it right because a great meal is unthinkable without it.
No wonder the four-month old Barbone has always got a good crowd. And that cool Lower East Side vibe.
The tab for four, with before dinner drinks, two courses apiece, a bottle of wine, desserts and vinsanto and coffee, plus tip: $61 a person. As you see, we denied ourselves nothing and still came away with what, for NY, is a reasonable tab.
Barbone is the kind of place you want to go back to, and often.
Julie and I ate at Barbone three weeks ago the night before I flew back to Memphis. The place is all you say it is. I took a couple of wines, about which they were very accommodating, and also ordered glasses of the Bottega Vinaia Lagrein 2004 ($11 a glass). If I'm reading my notes correctly, we ate calves liver ravioli and pressed cornish hen and pappardelle with short ribs. Great meal. And BTW, happy b'day (tomorrow) Mondosapaore!
Posted by: Fredric Koeppel | October 08, 2006 at 12:26 PM
Thanks, FK. There will be an interview tomorrow between Self and Soul, which should prove mildly amusing.
I thought very highly of Barbone, a great place to go habitually. Not an event restaurant by any means. But solid and really good for the money.
If they had a place this good in a town like Cleveland, it WOULD be an event restaurant there.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | October 08, 2006 at 12:31 PM