Sunday, April 1
After sampling the Champagnes, Domenico wandered the arched halls of Villa Favorita, making stops here and there, more or less at random. Some of the producers and wines that he liked very much were...
Ch. Ste. Anne, Ste. Anne d'evenos, Bandol AOC, FR
Domenico was quite taken by these powerful, earthy wines from the Mediterranean shore. "It was like drinking all the herbs and flowers of the maquis," he writes. He tried only the reds ("Too many white wines around here!") and two were most memorable. One was a blend of all three of the grapes grown on the estate (mourvedre 60%, 20% each cinsault and grenache), which was perhaps more civilized and balanced than the 100% mourvedre. "Very tannic this, horsy, leathery, strong herbs. Earthy, very." Domenico confesses a weakness for this style of wine and loved this example of it.
Aristide didn't especially like them -- "too rough, no finesse." (Someone who knows the estate well says that sometimes there is a problem in the winery...they need to change the casks more often. But "when they are good, they are superb.")
Azienda Agricola Radoar, Verturno, IT
This is the highest vineyard in all of the mountainous region of Alto Adige, at over 800 meters (let's say 2500-2600 feet). The area under cultivation is only about 4 acres. The whites exhibit an even higher degree of purity than the others from this wonderful region. The standout: their 2006 Kerner, which was bottled early for this event and Vinitaly. The actual bottling will be in June. Kerner is a local variety that seems to concentrate every available bit of solar energy and sugar in its shining light-gold liquid. This one was impressive, especially at 14-15€ in wineshops.
Bera Vittorio & Figli, Canelli, IT
The wine here was a "vino chinato," based on Moscato d'Asti and "spiced" so that from the sweetness at the bottom notes of tea and cinnamon rang out. Domenico thought it curious but, finally, not for him. Well-known blogger and wineshop owner Fiorenzo Sartore loved it and saw a market for it at home in Liguria. About 10€ for a 500 ml bottle.
And then there were two nectars of the gods, according to Domenico. "Beautiful to look at. Better to taste."
Ch. Pierre-Bise, Beaulieu, FR
Located in Coteaux de Layon, a dryish zone in the Loire Valley between Brittany and the Paris basin, the whites are luscious whether off-dry or botrytized. The 100% Savagnin was excellent but overshadowed by the sweet 100% Chenin Blanc "Quarts de Chaume" which, at a modest 12% alcohol, would make a sensational accompaniment to the fruit course. Aged in 400 litre casks, the 2004 Quarts de Chaume is already rounded, balanced, a wine to savor thanks to its endless finish. Retail cost in France is about 20€. Astonishingly fine for this price, although in America it would not be such a relative bargain after the 3-tier system got through with it. Still worth a hefty price; it's a wine you drink slowly, almost contemplatively, and which you must talk about.
I Clivi, Az. Agr. Ferdinando Zanusso, Corno di Rosazzo, IT
This property is located in the northeastern province of Udine, where the cool latitude and altitude are modified by breezes from the Adriatic. Two of the whites really knocked Dom's socks off, or rather, two vintages from the same Brazan vineyard (pictured) near the Slovenian border. The bottles were both a blend of Tocai (now called Tai or some such) and Malvasia. The 1999 costs more (25€) than the 1997 (17€) and exhibits a very different character, which is one of the hallmarks of organic/less interventional winemaking; to a considerable extent, nature is allowed to take its course.
The 1999, then, was deeper, plusher and more almondy and honeyed than the 1997, which was a cooler year. The 1997 was less abboccato (i.e., a little less sweet), spritelier with more acidity. It had, surprisingly, a longer finish. Read what Jancis Robinson has to say about I Clivi's white wines. Well-deserved praise.
These all sounds like terrific wines, lots of depth and character. Lucky Domenico!
Posted by: Fredric Koeppel | April 10, 2007 at 05:18 PM
Lucky indeed!
These wines did a lot to counter the sense of sameness and staleness that I experienced at Gambero Rosso's do here in NY. Domenico's enthusiasm was such that I almost felt I'd been there myself.
At Vinitaly itself he was careful about which wineries he went to. Except for a couple of big Amarone producers, he didn't visit the stands of the big names, which were horribly crowded anyway.
He did attend a guided tasting of Masi's Amarones, which was a very educational experience, as it was in fact intended to be. He sent me some pretty nice notes on those too.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | April 10, 2007 at 05:32 PM