"Losing acidity was a very grave mistake" -- Carlo Ferrini

At the risk of appearing to be the tool, either unwitting or vilely corrupt, of Big Wine, I would like to post my last post on the Ruffino Sangiovese seminar and tasting at Del Posto last week. As promised, it deals with their consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini, who was brought on board in 2001.  His 2004 Ruffino wines are newly released.

How do these new wines compare with older vintages B. C. (before Carlo)? 

I'll be brief: Alive.

Last Tuesday morning we tasted...

Sangioveses from three Ruffino properties, each representing a classic wine area of Tuscany.  These were Santedame, Chianti Classico DOCG 2005 (85% SG, 15% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot); Lodola Nuova, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003 DOCG (SG with 10% Merlot); and Greppone Mazzi, Brunello di Montalcino 2001 (a Brunello DOCG, hence 100% SG).

Before I go on, I have to say that I found all of these wines much more pleasing and lively than the Riserva Ducale (dull and corporate, too international, etc.), and even somewhat more so than the Riserva Ducale Oro, which we tasted in a vertical flight from 1977 to 2003.  (Executive summary: it hasn't aged all that great, the later vintages are more pleasing in every respect.  But that's just me the tool of Big Wine talking.)  The Greppone Mazzi Brunello 2001 was, to me, especially winning in its refinement and balance. 

The real revelation came with the 2006 barrel samples of each of the three wines mentioned above.  The steadying hand of Dottor Ferrini was in evidence.  Compared with other recent vintages these young wines, well before their release dates, showed not only the promise of the vintage but the aliveness that had sometimes been in short supply with older Ruffino wines. 

A couple of quick impressions of each of these three:

Santedame Chianti Classico 2006 barrel sample -- Nicely balanced, very good for a plain Classico.  13.75% alcohol, 5.67 g/L acidity, 3.44 pH.  Current retail price for Santedame is $18.

Lodola Nuova 2006 barrel sample -- Rich and smoky, meaty notes -- bacon.  A wonderful  wine for a hearty meal on a cold night.  14.15% alcohol, 5.69 g/L acidity, 3.50 pH.  Current retail price for Lodola Nuova (accent on the LOD, by the way) is $22.

Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 barrel sample -- Very long, rich, elegant, again enticingly balanced.  All Sangiovese, best clones.  14.74% alcohol, 5.46 g/L acidity, 3.54 pH.  Current retail price for Greppone Mazone Brunello di Montalcino is $63.

One of the most striking and pleasing differences between these 2006 barrel samples and other recent vintages of these wines:  acidity levels are higher across the board in the 2006, giving the wines that liveliness and freshness that had been missing.  (Example: Santedame 2005 4.82 g/L vs. 5.67 g/L in the 2006.) 

This higher acidity level is, of course, a function of both vintage and winemaking decisions.  I tend to believe that, in this case, it's more of matter of decision and even deep belief.  In his address last week, Ferrini made a statement that struck me with its truth and the forcefulness with which he spoke it: 

In the 1990s winemakers were concerned about bigness and richness, and they didn't think about acidity.  Acidity actually got in their way.  Losing acidity was a very grave mistake.  Now people are interested in elegance again.   We must restore balance to our wines.

Comments

[AC]

I talked to the Icon folks.
The Ruffino-Illy Espresso machine is on its way.

only one question:
do you want it in black, blue or red?

The blue is hot, goes well in my office with the Planeta Aeron chair.

[Gabrio Tosti]

Hey AC I think that with the espresso machine is coming a lifetime supply of coffee as well :0