At night in San Giorgio di Valpolicella

We are jetlagged but well fed. Went to a local hangout that was highly recommended by a local, a pleasant young woman in SG who runs a cafe with a spectacular view of southern Lake Garda. The village has a church dating to the Dark Ages, 8th century, into which was incorporated a pagan sacrifice altar in use as such until then. Wasn't Christianity supposed to have triumphed centuries before? Ah the simplifications of Official Stories.

The church is striking in its Dark Ages poverty and severity. Inspiring in its harsh expression of the survival principle.

Back to the important thing, dinner. We ate in Monte at a place named Cadelapela. Well and most amply for under 50 euros. For three. With a bottle of wine. A good find.

Back at the B n B for an early night. Then tomorrow the Big Show. I can't wait!

Ciao, ragazzi.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Comments

[Fredric Koeppel]

years ago, i think in 1992, i was on assignment in Rome covering the organization of an Eruscan exhibition coming to the U.S. We took an excursion to Ceri a hilltown north of Rome, perched on top of a steep out-cropping. This tiny hill-town had a Christian chapel from the 7th century, built on and incorporating the remains of a little Etruscan temple; the church (very simple and austere) actually still had frescos of Etruscan griffons on the walls! but the candles that you paid for to pray for whatever were electric. and we had rabbit for lunch with local red wine. what a day.

have a great time at VinItaly, chum.

[David J]

Continuity of spiritual/religious culture in Italy?
In Vezelay, Burgundy, the Cathedral os St. Mary Magdalene evidences a more conflicted um historical progression-- statues that were bashed & defaced by image-rejecting Huguenots & outright Jacobins have never been repaired.
There are litle gargoyle-angels peering at you from nooks between plinth & column-- and the crypt downstairs...it's a womb of lumpy white basalt...

[Fredric Koeppel]

i love those wombs of lumpy white basalt!

[Johnatan]

Hi,

i was in Valpolicella last week beacuase i work with a factory there. During a dinner i tasted Fratelli Vogadori's Recioto. A red sweet wine, it was fantastic. Does someone know this wine producer?