Conca d'Oro, friendly B&B in Valpolicella

If you're staying in the Verona area, you'll quickly realize the hotels are a bit dismal.  Very expensive and fusty.  The B&Bs and agriturismi are much more pleasant and cost far less, too.

For this year's Vinitaly we stayed at a friendly B&B on the outskirts of a tiny, charming village called San Giorgio di Valpolicella.  It is obscure, but you know it is a frazione of Sant'Ambrogio in Valpolicella.  Of course I'm kidding around -- these semi-rural places are to the northwest of Verona and are effectively removed from the congestion and hassle of the big town.  Lots of excellent wineries are in and around S. Giorgio and the township of S. Ambrogio, so it's a good base to explore the Valpolicella zone.

Above: Room with a view

Owned by a neurosurgeon, Dr. Zorzi, and his wife, Conca d'Oro is in a location with great views of the valley and, especially from the breakfast/dining room, of Lake Garda.  They give you a nice breakfast and will make your coffee any way you want...and as many pots as you want.  Essential when you've been at Vinitaly all day and then at a bibulous dinner till very very late. 

The prices are reasonable.  We paid 70 euros a night at a time when Best Westerns right by the autostrada were going for hundreds.  Believe me, it was far nicer waking up to birdsong and the smell of blossoms than the roar of trucks and the smell of diesel. 

Best of all, we were in walking distance (all vertical) of a stunning Dark Ages church in S. Giorgio itself.  It's a beautiful, untouristed little town with a grand view of Lake Garda far far below.  We spent a fews hours relaxing at a little cafe in the piazza, where we had cheap but good wine and delicious snacks.  The tables catch all the sun in the world, and it feels like a spot to stay in forever.

If you think you might stay at Conca d'Oro, click here. 

Two things, though.  Better have a navigational system.  Better be prepared to speak Italian or French.  Or Latin, since the signora is a retired Classics teacher.

Picture makes the church look big.  It is not.  Dates from Eighth Century. Odd bit of info: Couples come from all over Italy to be married there.  Maybe it has something to do with the altar which was repurposed from pagan animal-sacrifice altar/carving board?

NB:  We have already reserved our rooms for next Vinitaly.

Another part of the view