Wines you wish were better appreciated

After I posted this morning, I began to wonder what wines I thought were seriously under-appreciated, whether considered as a type, region, grape or some other criterion.  And I wondered what you felt were wines that didn't get the respect or appreciation they deserve. 

My candidates may surprise you.  They aren't Italian, even though I feel that, relatively speaking, there are wine regions in Italy that are overrated and overpriced, and others that offer stunning surprises.  You can read between the lines and fill in the blanks there. 

No, my under-appreciated wines come from

Not one of them

Greece, Portugal and Virginia. 

In the past few years a lot of articles have been written extolling Greece's wines.  The whites made of local varieties, like assyrtiko, have especially received praise.  The assyrtiko of Santorini, a native of that stark island, is full of minerality, ringing fruit flavors and, thanks in no small part to the technology of temperature control, bracing acidity.  It completely defies the old image of "southern" white wines as flabby, oxidized, boring.  Of course, you can say the same of the rebirth of Italy's white southern wines in Sicily and Campania especially.  Still, the volcanic soil and dry farming of windswept Santorini gives expression to a unique landscape and viticulture.

Even more than the whites, the Greek reds have really impressed me.  The local red-wine grapes are interesting and tasty, pairing well with the food; aghiorghitiko is a popular variety.  But, in addition, this is one "new old world" wine region where planting Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't preordain a "typical, international" style of wine.  One of the most astonishing wines I ever drank was at a restaurant in Athens.  I was skeptical when the sommelier urged me to order an Attic cabernet (NOT cheap) from a small vineyard, use of minimal chemicals, French oak, etc., etc.  He decanted it, revealing that the wine, about 8 years old, had thrown a fine sediment.  Its color was the pale red you associate with old-style Bordeaux, claret in other words.  And it tasted as fine and elegant as a cru classe', yet with a hint of Greek minerality, backbone, that gave it a unique character.

As to the red wines of Portugal, I feel they deserve far more prominence in the United States.  Forgive my heresy, but perhaps even more than Italy, Portugal offers us a stunning range of local grapes, usually at least 3-4 in a blend, and loads of sapidity.*  I pondered this word a long time, for the Portuguese reds that I've had possess a racy, even exhilarating sapidity that's rare in this era of scientifically analysed vino.  There's a wildness and slight strangeness that makes you want to keep drinking the stuff as you ask yourself, "What is it I'm getting here, exactly?"  You may not be able to put it into words, but it's very appealing.  And the wines are cheap enough to drink, happily, every day.

And we come to Virginia.  The wine "industry" there -- let's call it vinifera grape-farming -- dates from only the 1970s.  I sure as hell never knew of vinifera wineries when I lived there (1971-1978), but the producers there have made tremendous progress even in the 6-7 years since I drank my first VA wine.  Their reds are delicious, and Cabernet Franc is a shining star down there.  CF from Virginia is of course different from its Loire manifestations; but, like the Cabernet Sauvignon from Attica, it's both true to type and anything but "typical" in a boring, unrooted sense. 

So.  What about you?  What are your candidates for most under-rated or -appreciated wines?

sapidity (n.)

sapid (adj.)

1.

a. Perceptible to the sense of taste; having flavor.

b. Having a strong pleasant flavor; savory.

2. Pleasing to the mind; engaging.

Comments

[tracie b]

franciacorta (appreciated in italia, not as much here), piedirosso, falerno del massico rosso, godello, valtellina, and i have to add sherry to my list as well. and dry fizzy reds...they're too much fun.

oh and champagne. that poor region could use a little more recognition.

[Gabrio Tosti]

Sapidity connected to salt so I would say A.
For under appreciate wines I will pair with you on Portugal and add Sardinia.
Tracie I'm with you with italian bubbles but I would mention Sparklers from Piedmont and Trentino Alto Adige and hopefully I can share a glass with you soon :)
Buona Bevuta a Tutti

[Dr. Debs]

Fino Sherry, most definitely, and Italian whites. In the past 6 months I've been kind of stunned by the range of Italian white wines. I'm a beginner in this region, I admit, but still. I'm drinking a Sardinian Nuragas tonight and it is fantastic, in an opulent, opera-star-at-the-beach sort of way.

[tracie b]

and monica, let's not forget that, speaking of sardegna.

where are the bubbles again?

[Ronald]

Since i have a sweet spot for sweet wines, i would say these:
1) Tokay (esp those that have 5/6 puttunyos)
2) Coteaux de Layon and Coteaux de l'Aubance in Val de la Loire (some have aromas of mandarin oranges and lychee, reminds me of home..)
3) Moscato d'Asti/Grechetto d'Asti
4) Jerez/ Sherry- fino, cream and pedro ximenez

[tirebouchon]

Ti segnalo una mia recente scoperta: il vitigno Trousseau del Cotes du Jura, regione della Francia fra Lione e il confine con la Svizzera.
Un piccolo produttore biologico, di nome Tissot (distribuito in Italia da Velier - Triple A)ne ricava un vino buonissimo, utilizzando solo uva trousseau. Ti piacerebbe assai!
Senza dimenticare le grandi potenzialità, anche d'invecchiamento del Timorasso, uva a bacca bianca coltivata nella zona di Tortona (Alessandria- Italia): recentemente con Slowfood abbiamo fatto una grande degustazione di questo vino che dà molte soddisfazioni a chi ha ripreso a produrlo.

[Marco]

Terry can you recommend any Greek reds? The Portuguese Douro's, Dao's and Alentejo's are wines that will become more well known when the Portuguese get the business end clicking. So far, the Douro's are my favorite. Symington's Tinto do Roriz (great reserva @$23) and Vale do Bonfim Reserva, Quinta Ramos...

[Gabrio Tosti]

Tracie the Bubbles are here in NYC waiting for you :)

[Marco]

Watch it Gabrio.

[th]

Marco, I'm sure she's used to it. She did live in Itaglia.

[Gabrio Tosti]

You guys are always the same, just because somebody is friendly towards a good looking woman and acting like a gentleman you have to think badly...that's profiling :)

[th]

@ Gabrio, we can hear the leer in your comments.